Table tent, sticker, or poster: which surface should your QR code go on?

Three weeks after printing, the corner of the table tent has gone soft from a spilled drink, the ink has started to lift, and the code that scanned instantly on day one now needs someone to hold their phone dead still while the camera decides what it’s looking at. Nothing about the code changed. The paper did.

That’s a different problem than a bad design. Size, contrast, and a logo that doesn’t crowd the code are all decisions you make once and they hold. The surface underneath keeps living after that: it gets handled, spilled on, rained on, or left in a window for a year, and it fails on its own schedule, in its own way. Picking the right one for the job matters as much as designing the code correctly in the first place.

Table tents: built for mess, not for looks

A table tent lives closer to food and drink than almost anything else you’ll print a code on. It gets picked up, leaned on, splashed, and occasionally knocked to the floor. The failure mode is rarely the design, it’s a coffee ring blurring the contrast the scanner needs, or a soaked corner that curls the whole card.

Print it on laminated or coated stock, glossy or matte. A laminate sheds a spill instead of absorbing it, and it keeps the ink from lifting when someone wipes the table. Plain, uncoated paper looks identical on day one and starts failing by the end of the week.

Table tents also earn their keep by getting replaced often, and that’s fine. Menus change, offers rotate, and the material takes a beating from handling regardless. Budget for reprinting a table tent every few months as normal upkeep, not as a sign something went wrong. It sits close to the reader, so it doesn’t need to be large, see the print size guide for exact numbers.

Stickers: the adhesive decision you don’t get to redo

A sticker is the one format where you don’t get a second try at placement. Peel it off a wall or a window after the fact and you’re usually left with a torn label, a sticky outline, or both. That makes two decisions matter more here than anywhere else: the adhesive, and the surface it’s going on.

Permanent adhesive is right for anything you own long-term: equipment, packaging, a storefront window that’s actually yours. Go removable for anything temporary, a rented booth, a seasonal display, anywhere the surface underneath isn’t yours to commit to. Leave permanent adhesive somewhere too long and it can pull paint or leave a residue that outlasts the sticker itself.

Two other things decide whether a sticker holds up:

• Weather exposure. Anything outdoors, a food truck window, a yard sign, a piece of equipment left in the sun, needs UV-stable vinyl. A standard paper label fades, curls, and cracks within weeks outside.
• Surface shape. A flat label on a curved surface, a water bottle, a rounded sign post, lifts at the edges over time. Curved or textured surfaces need a material actually rated for it, not a flat label forced to bend.

Because there’s no redo, size it right the first time using the same distance-to-size rule as everything else, and confirm the placement before you commit to peeling the backing off.

Posters and signs: distance decides, then the material has to survive it

Size for a poster or sign is already covered by the 10:1 distance rule, if it’s read from ten feet away, it needs to be at least a foot across. What decides whether the material holds up is different: how long it needs to last, and what it’s exposed to.

A poster taped up for a single weekend event can be plain paper. It doesn’t need to survive weather or repeated handling, just the event. A sign meant to stay up for a season or longer, especially outdoors, needs a rigid substrate like foam board or coroplast and UV-resistant printing. Plain paper left in a window for a few months of sun bleaches out, and a code that’s lost its contrast to fading fails the exact same way a badly designed one does, even though nothing about the design was wrong.

Posters and signs get touched far less than a table tent or a door sticker, so handling wear rarely matters. Time and weather are what actually get them.

Matching the surface to the job

Surface	Good for	Watch out for
Table tent	Close range, indoor, high turnover (menus, offers)	Grease, spills, condensation, needs coated or laminated stock
Sticker	Fixed placement on a window, product, or piece of equipment	Adhesive choice, curved surfaces, no second placement
Poster or sign	Read from a distance, short-term or long-term	Rigid material and UV resistance for anything outdoors

The one thing a surface choice can’t lock you into

Whichever surface wears out first, or turns out to be the wrong pick, the code itself doesn’t have to change. A Graklink code is dynamic: its destination lives on our end, not printed into the pattern, so the surface and the code are two separate things. A table tent that got destroyed by a spill needs a reprint of the card. It never needs a new code.

That’s worth knowing before you commit to a material. Get the surface wrong and you’ve lost a sheet of paper or a sticker, not the thing you paid for.

Picking the right surface is half the question. The other half is whether that spot is actually earning its place, and you can only answer that by giving each placement its own code and reading the difference. We walk through that in comparing QR code placements.

Sources

• Print and signage material practices. Lamination for spill resistance, permanent versus removable adhesive, UV-stable vinyl for outdoor use, and rigid substrates for weatherproof signage are standard commercial printing conventions, not proprietary claims. Last reviewed 2026-07-15.
• QR print sizing. The 10:1 distance-to-size rule referenced above is covered in full, with a size chart, in how big should a QR code be for print.

Pick the surface for where the code actually lives, then design one that scans.